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MiniArt Models 1/35 PZ.KPFW.III AUSF.D Model Kit
$39.99 - View on Amazon

From the Mitko Nikitov channel:

Transcript from Mitko Nikitov:

"Hello guys, from DN Models! Today we are building Miniart's Panzer III.D, kit number 35169. The tank was developed in 1930s as a medium tank, and the first four versions A, B, C and D were pre-production versions, prototypes using different kinds of suspensions of which few were built. From A and B were built around 10 of each. C version was built in 15 examples and D which we are building today was built in around 30 pieces. All of them saw action in Poland and D version saw some action in Poland and in Norway. The kit itself is very complex. It contains 1146 parts. A 1064 of which are plastic parts, 71 are photo-etched and 11 are clear parts. Although some of the parts are complex and they require attention, the fit is almost perfect and the new plastic material that Miniart use from 2015 on gives you great results with the assembly.

The model itself is not suitable for beginner modelers, for intermediate and master-modelers its perfect piece out of the box, because it contains a lot of goodies as single track links which are similar if not better to aftermarket metal tracks and the only disadvantage compared to them is the fact that they don't have that weight. But you'll see that later on in the video. If you follow the instructions precisely and you pay a lot of attention, you'll note that there will be no big deal in assembling everything together and get on with the build as a breeze. Although if you are not experienced you might encounter some troubles, especially with the suspension, because it is pretty complex as it was on the real tank as well. The fenders of the vehicle are really well detailed with a lot of texture and a lot of options to make them in different positions. They have photo-etch parts and some attention is required there, however as I've said - if you a bit experienced modelers you'll have no problem what so ever with the build.

Photo-etch itself is pretty thin and flexible. It requires for you to be careful with it. Especially sanding it because it bends way too easy. However, this on the other hand means great detail and great bending opportunities for parts that needs to be curved around the plastic. The only thing noted that needs a different type of treatment was the upper part of the turret, which needed some putty and that was it. The rest of the tank is nearly perfect and requires none additional measurements what so ever. The track assembly is done with a plastic part which will help you aligning everything together and adding the two side pins pretty much as with modelkasten tracks. That will give you the flexibility and the option to make the tracks in different positions and make them movable. Or just add only parts of them if you decide to make the vehicle ruined or damaged in any way.

The pins that connect the track links does not require additional glue. They sit together pretty tight and everything works well without a drop of glue. The plastic part that is used to align the tracks holds only few pieces of them, and you gotta collect a couple pre-assembled parts which once put together, will give you the full length of the track length. There are many additional track links and track pins, so even if you break one or loose some, you still have enough to complete the model. Once built, the track length is pretty movable, and even if you don't glue the pins it works quite well. The superstructure sub-assemblies are not complicated but they have a lot of additional parts on themselves and you gotta be careful when putting them together. Once each sector is completed, building everything, gluing one piece to another is very easy.

At first glance the fenders looks like they won't go into their places, but this is only a trick of the eye. Everything lies one to another with a wonderful fit. The whole sub-assembly requires only few drops of extra thin glue, and in the end you get wonderful piece of German World War II tank. Miniart is a company that usually thinks about the modelers and they have put additional photo-etch parts which are supposed to hold the rope and they are available as an option to be installed or left behind, because you can add an additional stowage over the rear part of the tank. The turret contains movable parts in terms of the guns and the machine guns. Putting the interior in the turret is also an option. As you can see here, everything is installed. Very few of the details require additional sanding or preparation before assembly, but there are some that do.

The antenna mount is positionable and we cut out the antenna in order to make an aftermarket or scratch build one in the end. However you can put it aside, lying down or in the "up" position. The upper and the lower parts of the turret are with a great fit and they were left behind because painting the interior is tricky job and needs a lot of space. Few drops of putty were needed in the front part of the tank because plastic was damage upon opening the box. It could've left as it is, but we decided to fix it in order to make tank look more new and not so used. Priming the vehicle was done in two stages. The interior of the tank is usually white and we used white primer as base for it. For the exterior we are using black primer, because the vehicle is supposed be a bit dark-ish. The black primer is the perfect base for that. In both cases, using black and white primer, we are using AK Primers which are nice and they give you a solid finish over the whole vehicle.

These primers does not require additional dilution and they airbrushed straight out of the bottle. The pressure required is around 16 PSI or less. Once everything gets a completed look we stop with the primer. Next are the tracks. They are straight painted, not primed because the primer usually clogs the holes and prevents the free movement of the tracks. They are painted in two colors, first one is Dark Tracks and the second one is Rust Tracks. That give you additional shading and draws the attention to the modulation of the coloring. It is essential to cover all the tracks pretty well, although some spots even left as in the original color may represent dusted or dry-mud areas. Painting the tank starts with dark-ish shade of grey.

First its applied in thin layer, barely to cover the primer. The second layer is with added white and few drops of the diluter. The second layer is with more thick coverage in order to get the whole tank more complete. After that - few drops of white and some dilution and couple of more layers in order to get the shades and modulation. To get the proper shading, you need time, thus chipping with hairspray is not recommended. You gotta be careful to paint the turret as well as the hull in the same color because sometimes modulation one or the other creates a differents in the shades. Before finishing the painting process, we spray highly diluted mist of the leftover of the paint over the whole tank in order to blend everything together. Although the decals looks quite promising and they are looking very thin, we decided to go with the DN Models masks, as we do on most of our models. They are very flexible and easy to use and in the version that we decided to make here, there only three crosses to paint, so that was a definite decision.

Changing the decals with mask stencils. The stencils are re-usable and can be used on several models. As you see some additional masking might be needed and this is only because there is no need for overspray of the white paint over the whole model. Working with the masks is very fast and it gives you a lot of options replicating the exact technique used in the real vehicle by the soldiers. Before assembling the upper and the lower parts of the turret, we need to do one more thing and that is painting the interior. Not many interior photos can be found on the internet, however those we found showed that there are black or brown seats and we decided to go with both /colors/ Some corrections are needed because painting with a paint brush is not that easy. Painting in different colors inside creates additional attraction and once the viewer looks at the vehicle, its usually more likable and easy to comprehend.

Bags that holds the ammo /or the rest of it/ are painted also in two colors. The big one is green, as in some of the reference pictures and other two were painted in sail color. Both of colors are very easy to be treated with oils afterwards and once washed, they appear very different and realistic. If you do not apply some chipping over the edges, the turret usually looks very new and unused which is quite unrealistic. Chipping process is slow, you gotta use the thinnest brush possible and you gotta take your time. Taking your time usually helps noticing some areas missed or some that needs more attention or needs to be left untouched. Chipping is followed with a wash, with helps spreading the liquid over the chips and around them. That creates additional interesting effect. Accumulated wash needs to be cleaned. Once everything looks equal, you can proceed with the streaking effect.

Streaking usually is done with oils applied randomly on some parts on which streak effects can be noted on the real vehicle. Blending everything together is essential for the final appearance of the interior. Being painted white,is a tricky color and its hart to be worked with. With enough attention and patience, everything can be achieved inside of the tank. Gluing the upper and the lower parts of the turret gotta be done with the thinnest glue possible. You gotta touch here and there, just like welding parts. That prevents the glue to spread out and ruin the paint. While everything settles down some dry brushing over the track is made, using Vallejo silver and metalizer oil paints whichever your preference is. Using white spirit and oil paints, in this case a bit of blue and a bit of grey, creates a filter to cover all of the tank and blend everything together.

The filter works just like if you put your sunglasses on and changes the whole appearance of the visible parts of the tank. It helps you create additional effect in terms of using blue - that creates unconcious effect of cold-looking parts, in this case - cold looking vehicle. Two different pigments are used for the first pigment layer under the fenders. This is only the beginning. Once you apply the pigments, and you mix them together, achieving desirable color, you fix them with a pigment fixer, which is stronger than the white spirits and holds 'em together just like they were glued. After fixing the first layer of pigments, tracks are attached. This is done because the tracks needs to be there since after putting them on, you cannot reach most of the surfaces behind and beneath them. Once everything is set together it's time for streaking on the outside.

Painting tank in dark gray means that streaking effects should be light, replicating mud and light dust. This is the only thing visible on a dark vehicle. They are done with oils and then cleaned with white spirit. With brush cleaned from the spirit and used to absorb some of the oils and blend the rest. Everything must be done with intuition and have to be monitored carefully so to not leave some parts underpainted or leave some over-painted which is very easy. Once the weathering begins it's very easy to loose the track of it and go further than needed. Using dotting technique over the flat surfaces is also nice and creates dust effects like spreaded dust or leftovers of water stains and similar weathering. Next technique used usually is a wash. Wash is created with buff, replicating the dust effect.

Putting the wash with a longer brush holding more of the liquid helps letting it spreading out over the angles, using capillary action. That helps create more natural effect of dust. Using couple of different washes, creates additional attraction and makes everything look more realistic. Next step is sponge technique. This is very old and reliable method of applying small chips over the tank. You can use either paint which is acrylic, or oil. The chipping should be applied randomly and using different angles of the sponge to not repeat the pattern. Welding marks are pointed out with a graphite or pencil. In both cases it works fine creating an illusion for metal appearance. Dry brushing method is used randomly, usually over the sprockets or idles, the tracks, machine guns and parts that you wanna do appear metal.

The exhaust of the tanks usually are very rusted and in order to create that effect we use pastels. Pastels are more sticky than the pigments and we rub them with a stiff dry brush right onto the muffler. Then fix everything with white spirit. Additionally you can always use AK or MIG or whatever company Rust Effects. Light and Rust effects can be applied over the pigments and then blended out with white spirit. Light rust effects are used over angles or tricky places where accumulated rust can be seen on the real vehicle. You gotta be careful to not overdo it or if you do, to cover it with pigments afterwards because it's very easy to loose yourself using that technique. Same as with previous times, you gotta clean the excess with moist brush. Mixing different shades of pastels along with pigments is our preferable method of applying dust.

Pigments are not that sticky, although the pastels are. Blend them together gives you the perfect combination of weathering powder, which gently applied over the tank, gives you a realistic effect of dust or sand. Because of the stickyness of the pastels white spirit is not needed to fix them in most of the cases. This is a perfect technique for blending everything together starting with the wheels, sprockets, tracks and continuing upwards. Going upwards the pigments applied are less and less. The accumulation of dirt and dust is mostly visible on the bottom parts of the tank. Next is the sprinkle effect - using wash or premixed oils you gotta unload the brush of the sprinkles and when you get the desired amount of sprinkles to do it over everything you want to blend together. Even if you miss a spot with previous stages of weathering sprinkling effect usually covers it and creates a trick to the eye, making it look like a one whole piece.

Using one more different sprinkle colors is recommended. After everything is completed, once again we are repeating the action with pigments and pastels to cover some of the areas with additional dust. Sometimes only just a few touches change the appearance of the whole thing! Once built, the whole thing looks like this. The very last thing to do, is to add the antenna. To use an aftermarket antenna or scratch build one is a matter of preference. In this case we are using guitar string, with a medium thickness. A bit thinner than the plastic one, to add a real metal antenna. If you work every day, the whole build should take less than a month. I hope you enjoyed our video. Thanx to MiniArt for providing us with this wonderful kit which is perfect out of the box build and suitable for intermediate to experienced modelers.

Thank you for watching, subscribe if you liked it, leave a comment down below. See you in the next one! ..."

Description from Amazon: Panzer III was the common name of a medium tank that was developed in the 1930s by Germany and was used extensively in World War II. The AUSL Ð’ was the second attempt at a design solution for a tank in the 15-ton class. Only a small number of these design series vehicles were produced to provide a gun-armed PZ KPFW for training.

MiniArt Models 1/35 PZ.KPFW.III AUSF.D Model Kit
$39.99 - View on Amazon

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